— Noordereiland, Paihia —

Paihia: de Kawiti Glowworm Caves en de Paihia School Road Track

7 juli 2019

Zoals sommigen van jullie wel weten was Rick hier op bezoek de afgelopen weken. Het was enorm fijn om hem na zo’n lange tijd (ruim vier maanden) weer te zien. We hebben uiteraard van alles ondernomen. Zo hebben we een auto gehuurd en zijn we naar het noorden gereden. Om precies te zijn: Paihia, een bruisend kustplaatsje in de zomer (maar ook leuk in de winter).

Om daar te komen reden we de State Highway 1 af (zie hierboven), een bergachtige weg die je door de mooie bossen van Nieuw-Zeeland leidt. Ons was eigenlijk aangeraden om deze weg juist niet te rijden want langs de kust zou mooier zijn, maar daar hadden we helaas de tijd niet voor. Plus, we wilden graag naar de Kawiti Glowworm Caves gaan, en die lagen zo nu mooi op de route.

Goed, eenmaal onderweg besloten we te pauzeren bij dit uitkijkpunt:

In Nieuw-Zeeland zijn er enorm veel van dit soort uitkijkpunten, dus mocht jezelf ooit eens naar Nieuw-Zeeland gaan, tel dan altijd minstens een halfuur tot een uur bij je reistijd met de auto op.

Waar koffie is, daar is Rick. Rick had overigens geluk dat hier een koffiekraampje stond, want bij andere uitkijkpunten waar ik tot nu toe ben geweest ben ik geen drinkkraampjes tegengekomen.

Onderweg naar Paihia stopten we dus bij de Kawiti Glowworm Caves, de enige Glowworm Cave die door Maori’s wordt beheerd. Toen we aankwamen was het daar volledig uitgestorven (voordeel van reizen door Nieuw-Zeeland in de winter). Daardoor hadden we dus een privé-tour door de grot.

Voordat we de grot binnen gingen kregen we een lampje in onze handen gedrukt:

Eenmaal diep in de grot moesten we de lampjes uitdoen. En toen onze ogen eenmaal gewend waren aan het donker zagen we steeds meer blauwe lichtpuntjes verschijnen (hoe blauwer het licht, hoe hongeriger het wormpje). Dit komt natuurlijk totaal niet over op de foto’s, maar geloof me, het was magisch mooi.

Omdat we de enige bezoekers waren op dat moment mochten we extra veel vragen stellen, zowel over de grot als de Maori cultuur. Zo woonde er heel lang geleden in deze grot een Maori vrouw die was gevlucht voor haar wrede man (en leider van een een stam). Na 11/12 jaar werd ze ontdekt door leden van een andere stam die in het gebied woonden. Normaliter zou ze worden teruggestuurd of onthoofd worden maar de leider van deze stam (was de enige vrouwelijke Maori leider van een stam) besloot haar op te nemen, ook al riskeerde ze daar een oorlog mee.

Uiteindelijk kon de gevluchte vrouw niet leven met het schuldgevoel en de constante dreiging van een oorlog, dus besloot ze terug te gaan naar oude stam. Binnen twee dagen is ze onthoofd. Fijn, zo’n einde.

Verder vertelde de gids dat dit een van de weinige Maori grotten was die toegankelijk is voor publiek. Veel grotten zijn namelijk heilig, omdat ze werden gebruikt als laatste rustplaats voor overledenen.

Overleed er iemand, dan werd het lichaam aan een boom vastgebonden zodat vogels en andere dieren ervan konden eten (zal ongetwijfeld een fijn gezicht zijn geweest..) Was het lichaam eenmaal vrij van het vlees (gatver, alleen al dit schrijven zorgt al voor bad visuals) dan werden door de nabestaanden de laatste vleesresten verwijderd totdat alleen de botten over waren. Deze werden gewassen en vervolgen vermalen. De vermalen botten stopten ze in een kistje en deze kistjes werden dan diep in de grot gezet.

Tot zover ik weet doen ze dit nu niet meer zo (door de komst van blanken zijn toentertijd ook de meeste Maori’s overgestapt op een ander geloof) maar hierdoor hebben veel grotten dus een heilige status.

Anyway, dit was mijn spreekbeurt over de Maori’s. Op naar Paihia! Dat lag namelijk niet zover van deze grot vandaan.

Eenmaal in Paihia namen we de tijd om even rond te wandelen en te lunchen. Er heerste een gemoedelijke sfeer in dit kustplaatsje. Mocht ik hier nog zijn in de zomer, dan ga ik graag nog een keer terug naar de Paihia.

Na de lunch besloten we een kleine track te doen. Het werd de Paihia School Road track:

Once at the lookout you will have stunning views to Waitangi, across Motumairie (one of the islands off Paihia) to Russell then over the Russell Peninsula to Cape Brett and Ipipiri, the eastern Bay of Islands. (Bron)

Dit klonk goed, dus wij hebben hem dan ook gelopen tot aan het look-out point en zijn daarna weer terug gewandeld.

Duidelijk. Haha!

Uitzicht look-out point:

Eenmaal weer beneden reden we naar het hostel en hebben we ergens nog pizza gegeten en cocktails gedronken. We hebben het niet te laat gemaakt omdat we de volgende dag weer op tijd terug moesten naar Auckland (ik had namelijk een practical interview voor mijn baan de volgende dag).

Dit was een ontzettend leuk tripje en ik ben blij dat ik het bezoeken van een Glowworm Cave heb kunnen afstrepen van mijn lijstje (deze grotten komen namelijk alleen voor in Nieuw-Zeeland en een paar plekken in Australië).

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